June 17 - Malta

After an uneventful couple of sea days we arrived early in the morning in Malta.  The harbor is in the capital city of Valletta, named after a 16^th century Grand Master of the Knights of St. John.  The harbor is impressive, surrounded by fortresses and massive walls and ramparts built by the Knights to repel invaders.  I think it’s one of the more spectacular ports to sail into because of all the fortifications.

St. Elmo's Fortress

Valletta sea walls

Malta is the largest island of a small archipelago that lies about 80 km south of Sicily.  Its location and good harbor have contributed to its importance through the millennia.  There are ruins dating back to as early as 5000 BC.  It’s thought the first inhabitants were Stone Age people who came from Sicily. During the morning on our tour we visited the Tarxien Temples which were probably built by some of the earliest inhabitants.  The ruins were discovered in 1914 by farmers plowing their fields.  The complex which was unearthed is large and includes massive monoliths.  Giving a clue to how they may have been put into place are many small round stones which probably were used as rollers.  Many of the  large stones are carved with a spiral design that probably signifies eternity.

Tarxien Temple Complex

Round stones used as rollers

 

Spiral carvings were everywhere

The Fat Lady

Subsequently, the Phoenicians had several trading posts.   The Carthaginians used the island as a naval base during their wars with Rome.  Over the centuries the island has belonged to the Roman Empire, Byzantine Empire, Normans, Spanish and Holy Roman Empire.  In 1522 The Knights of St. John, who were originally Crusaders, were given Malta by Emperor Charles V after they were expelled from first Palestine and then the island of Rhodes by the Ottoman Emperor.  Their first capital was the city of Mdina.  It’s a walled city with only 650 residents today.  The only cars allowed within the walls are ones delivering things and then only at certain times of the day.  The place is tranquil and the streets are lined with palaces built by the knights in a variety of styles.

Quiet street in Mdina

Supposedly St. Paul was shipwrecked on Malta on his way to Rome.  During his stay on the island he converted the Roman governor Publius to Christianity. Publius became the first Bishop of Malta.  This archway over a gate in Mdina depicts St. Paul in the middle, Publius on the left and St. Agatha on the right.

In Mdina is one of the co-cathedrals of Malta.  In preparation for the Feast of St. George which is a big day on Malta,  the interior walls of the cathedral had been draped in red silk damask and the silver and gold had all been highly polished.  The plain exterior of the building was a real contrast to the resplendent interior. 

Main altar in the Cathedral

When the Knights occupied Malta they continued naval attacks against the Turks. Knowing that eventually they would be attacked by the latter, they built fortifications at a rapid pace.  The attack came in 1565 when Suleiman the Magnificent attacked with 40,000 troops.  The Knights who numbered 541 along with several thousand brave but untrained Maltese held off the Turks for 4 months until help finally arrived from Sicily.  Suleiman retreated in defeat with 30,000 of his men killed.

The next two centuries were relatively peaceful and the Knights rebuilt fortifications and constructed 2 magnificent cathedrals.  Then along came Napoleon in 1798.  He was on his way to Egypt but stopped for 6 days in Malta and left some troops behind.  During the next 2 years the French looted many of the treasures on the island to the chagrin of the Maltese.  In 1800 they had enough and they revolted.  They also invited the English under Lord Nelson to help them.  The French were ousted and for the next 160 years Malta became part of the British Empire.  The relationship was evidently a good one.  Unfortunately, though, because it was British and in a strategic location, Malta suffered heavy bombing during WWII.  It was said that in one two day period Malta received as many bombs as London did during a two month period. Malta became independent in 1964, a republic in 1974, and today is part of the European Union.  With a population of around 250,000 it has an unemployment rate of just over 2%.  The principal industry is tourism.

As a fan of “The Maltese Falcon,”  I looked for a connection.  I saw this on a wall in Mdina.